Saturday, March 8, 2014
Amaranthus
Amaranthus caudatus ( Love-Lies-Bleeding )
An annual, reaching a maximum size of 8 x 3 ( usually half that ) feet.
The large, ovate leaves, up to 10 x 4 inches, are bright green.
The deep red flowers are borne on narrow, rope-like, drooping inflorescences.
Thriving in full sun in just about any fertile, well drained soil. It should be planted out during spring after the threat of frost has passed.
Amaranthus hybridus ( Green Amaranth )
An annual, reaching a maximum size of 5 x 2 feet.
The foliage is bronzy-green to green.
The deep red flowers are borne on erect inflorescences during summer.
Thriving in full sun in just about any fertile, well drained soil. It should be planted out during spring after the threat of frost has passed.
var erythrostachys
Deep red-purple foliage and deep red flowers borne on brush-like inflorescences, up to 6 inches in length.
* photo taken on Aug 2 2013 in Stratford, Ontario
Amaranthus tricolor ( Josephs Coat )
A bushy annual, reaching a maximum size of 5 x 2.5 feet
The leaves are bronze, red, yellow or green, usually most intense colored towards the growing tips. The leaves are large, up to 12 x 4 inches in size.
The flowers are small and usually removed.
Thriving in full sun in just about any fertile, well drained soil. It should be planted out during spring after the threat of frost has passed.
* photos taken on July 31 2011 in Hyde Park, NY
Read More..
An annual, reaching a maximum size of 8 x 3 ( usually half that ) feet.
The large, ovate leaves, up to 10 x 4 inches, are bright green.
The deep red flowers are borne on narrow, rope-like, drooping inflorescences.
Thriving in full sun in just about any fertile, well drained soil. It should be planted out during spring after the threat of frost has passed.
Amaranthus hybridus ( Green Amaranth )
An annual, reaching a maximum size of 5 x 2 feet.
The foliage is bronzy-green to green.
The deep red flowers are borne on erect inflorescences during summer.
Thriving in full sun in just about any fertile, well drained soil. It should be planted out during spring after the threat of frost has passed.
var erythrostachys
Deep red-purple foliage and deep red flowers borne on brush-like inflorescences, up to 6 inches in length.
* photo taken on Aug 2 2013 in Stratford, Ontario
Amaranthus tricolor ( Josephs Coat )
A bushy annual, reaching a maximum size of 5 x 2.5 feet
The leaves are bronze, red, yellow or green, usually most intense colored towards the growing tips. The leaves are large, up to 12 x 4 inches in size.
The flowers are small and usually removed.
Thriving in full sun in just about any fertile, well drained soil. It should be planted out during spring after the threat of frost has passed.
* photos taken on July 31 2011 in Hyde Park, NY
Friday, March 7, 2014
Tips For Designing an Awkwardly Shaped Vegetable Garden
When Designing and starting a vegetable Garden in any urban setting it can be an awkward yet rewarding experience. Urban Garden enthusiasts have several issues to consider during the planning stage. First and foremost consider the aesthetic value of adding a vegetable Garden to any area. There are many plants that will present a charming and surprising twist in your green space. They are well worth any challenge they may present. I also caution you there are a few plants that will not blend in with others. This is not to say they should not be allowed in your Garden, its just they are more challenging to convince others that they are viewing an edible arrangement incorporated into the landscape. Most people visualize a vegetable Garden as a dirt field like a farm, rows of produce growing in exposed dirt. I agree that cabbage and corn fields can be considered shabby and not chic. With planning and cooperation from the weather you too can be on the way to a healthy harvest.My method is to incorporate vegetables into the urban environment. A well planned vegetable Garden can coexist with any landscape. There are "four s to Gardening" to consider when planning a Garden. First is the setting or set design, which includes the actual space versus the size and shape of plant being used. Second is the soil this will determine if you should plant in the soil or in containers. Third is sun, I know most Gardeners feel this is the most important element. Fourth is saturation, this is the ability of plants to get as much natural water as possible and using as little tap water as possible.
When planning your set design, there are two basic types of upright plants and two types of vine plants. For example; when adding vegetables to a landscaped bed of flowers and shrubs I suggest shorter bushy type plant such as peppers and herbs. They blend in well as a border plant. Even crops such as spinach and leaf lettuce works well with taller landscape shrubs. Taller stalk type plants such as Okra, Corn and even Sugar Cane works better planted in clusters along side thicker clusters of taller plants such as Ginger, Sunflowers, Larkspur or Hollyhocks. There are two types of vine plants that can be incorporated into the landscape. Growing trailing vines such as Tomatoes Peas, Beans and Cucumbers can make an attractive accent on an ordinary chain link fence, trellis or post on a patio deck. The addition of blooming vines such as Coral Vine, Morning Glory or Sweet Peas will add beauty to your climbing vegetable plants. Vines that run along the ground such as Melons, Eggplants, Squash, Bush Beans and Sweet Potatoes can be beautifully accented with flowering border plants like zinnia, marigolds, Geraniums and others.
Second consideration is the soil condition. In Houston Texas we have this hard clay like soil called "Gumbo". Its hard to work, the texture is similar to a soft plastic material, soil additives are needed to make the ground productive. Another unfriendly soil condition is massive tree roots. This is one of the points when you should consider container Gardening as an option. The other time to look at containers or raised flower beds is when you are surrounded by concrete.
The third consideration is sun. Most vegetables need a full day of sun but they will produce in lightly shaded locations with a few hours of sunlight. Outdoors security lights can be an added benefit to plants that are lacking natural daylight.
The fourth consideration I call saturation or natural watering. If you want to see a vegetable plant flourish to its fullest extent, place it where it has a source of morning dew such as the drip line of the roof or where it can get the added benefit of runoff from the rain water.
Vegetable Gardening is the most responsible way of going green and it doesnt have to take a major investment of space. I purposely omitted organic Gardening Tips, which offer the best health benefit. My suggestion to first time and novice is to consult your local Garden center for advice on controlling weeds and insects, especially in the south. Organic Gardeners can add some wonderful Tips to control insects and feeding the soil, but you must be able to invest the time to work the program and dedicate valuable urban space for composting.
Bryan Gathright expertise in green living home design is a result of his blended background in commercial art, industrial arts, landscape design, special events coordinations, public relations and a degree in Ornamental Horticulture into a floral & event company in Houston, Texas. Hes done programs for many groups over his career. Garden clubs, professional florist organizations, universities, community groups and churches. With over 35 years of experience in the flower industry, Bryan has a vast wealth of knowledge that he is willing to share with those who are interested in event decorating. For more information and to see photographs of my work visit me at my website.
Punch Home And Landscape Designer Review
Punch Home and Landscape Designer Review
A quick tutorial of how to get started using Punch! Home and Landscape Designer. Shows just how easy it is to create your home using the Quick ...Garden Designers Roundtable Memory and Plants
NOSTALGIA: The idea that a plant or group of plants can evoke certain emotions based upon an evolved memory of the landscapes they are associated.
I’ve been thinking a lot lately about our emotional experience of landscapes. Why do some landscapes make me feel relaxed and contemplative, while others make me nervous or uncomfortable? Landscape architects, designers, and gardeners have long explored the aesthetic experience of landscapes, but rarely the emotional experience.
I was delighted that the Garden Designer’s Roundtable topic for the month is “Memory and Plants.” It is the perfect excuse for dwelling a bit more deeply on a concept I’ve articulated before, but only partially. I want to write about “nostalgia,” a word I’ve used to describe our emotional reaction to planting design.
Why does this matter? For me, understanding our emotional connection to plants and landscapes holds tremendous potential for all those who design or garden. First, it pushes landscape design past the endless (and tiresome) pendulum swing of geometric vs. naturalistic (or formal vs. informal) design. This fundamentally formalistic concern has distracted us from exploring the full potential of landscape as a dynamic art form. Second, it offers designers a framework for understanding how to create emotional experiences within gardens and landscapes.
Plants, Memory, and Emotion
We are all likely to have very personal and subjective reactions to specific plants. The scent of orange blossoms remind me of a winter afternoon I spent in a Dumbarton Oaks conservatory; Southern Magnolias remind me of a giant tree on my grandmother’s property I played in as a child. These personal memories are poignant connections to plants, people, and places; but these subjective responses are not what I’m interested in here.
Emotions are fundamentally subjective, but I do believe that we share common evolutionary responses to our environment. Think about walking down a path that bends behind a dark, contorted thicket. What do you feel? Fear? Caution? Perhaps even a tinge of curiosity? The emotions may not be exactly the same as someone else, but they will share similar characteristics. Have you ever hiked to the top of a mountain and looked out over the vista? The pleasant feeling of scenery was described by British geographer Jay Appleton in his prospect-refuge theory, pointing out that we have a natural preference for environments we can easily see and navigate.
While environmental psychologists have long established the idea that there is an evolutionary basis for preferences for certain landscapes, few have extended that logic to the micro-scale of planting design.
Think about it: we spent literally thousands of years navigating through field and forests. We had an intimate connection to plants: they helped us navigate our environments, treat our wounds, and feed ourselves. Knowing how to distinguish between an edible plant and non-edible plant was a matter of life or death. It is only in the last 100 years or so of our species that we’ve been removed from the wild landscape.
While we may no longer recognize plants like our ancestors, it is my belief that we still retain the vestiges of memory and emotion. The exact memory may be gone, but we still have the primitive circuitry that produces emotions in response to our perception of safety or opportunity. The same emotional responses we have to larger landscapes can also be associated with plants or combinations of plants. When we see a certain plant or groups of plants, it can evoke the memory or feeling of a larger, natural landscape. And the memory of that larger landscape produces an emotional response within us.
A low grass may remind of us of a wide open, sunny space—like this field shown on the right. And a space like this makes us feel a certain way.
Big leaves may remind us of someplace wet, lush, and summery. Like this bottomland forest shown on the right. And lush, wet landscapes arouse their own unique associations.
A tight grouping of trees like these Sassafras at the U.S. Botanic Garden may evoke a hedgerow or naturalized agricultural landscape. Like this grouping of Sassafras shown on the right (image by Rick Darke).
We respond to these combinations at an intuitive level, even if they don’t know what they’re seeing. University of Southern California neuroscientist, Antonio Damsio calls associations between reinforcing stimuli (such as a plant) and an associated physiological state (such as a euphoric feeling) a somatic marker. Understanding how to exploit the emotional associations of plants can elevate planting design from the merely decorative to a meaningful art form.
Design Opportunity
Nostalgia is my attempt to describe a design strategy that uses plant combinations to evoke larger landscapes. By nostalgia, I do not mean that gardens should be backwards-looking. Nor am I advocating a resurrection of any specific garden style. Gardens should speak to the zeitgeist and look to the future. Nostalgia is a means of arranging plants to evoke larger landscapes (and thus, an emotional response we have in relation to that landscape).
The emotional response is the end goal of the design, but the exact emotion to be evoked in a design does not really matter. People may have multiple, complex, and often contradictory emotions within a single garden. In fact, the layering of emotions is what makes some landscapes compelling visit after visit. A single landscape may have multiple reference points: a shaded section of a garden might evoke a woodland floor brimming with ephemerals, while a sunny border might evoke a forb-rich wet meadow. What matters is the creativity of the association between plant combinations and wild landscapes. In some situations, literally transposing the species and patterns of a naturally occurring plant community may create the strongest effect; in other situations, the incongruity of an unexpected plant (a big-leafed tropical dropped into a group of prairie perennials) may create a more robust effect. What matters is the artistry of the arrangement.
The Paragon of Nostalgia: Piet Oudolf
The work of Piet Oudolf is perhaps the best example of "nostalgia" as a strategy for planting design. I have always felt an intensely emotional reaction to the few Oudolf landscapes Ive visited. This reaction is no accident. "For me, garden design isnt just about plants, it is about emotion, atmosphere, a sense of contemplation," said Oudolf recently in an interview with the Wall Street Journal, "You try to move people with what you do. That is the big part." Oudolfs American landscapes such as the Highline, the Gardens of Remembrance at The Battery, and the Lurie Garden in Chicagos Millennium Park all show Oudolfs remarkable range. Each of these landscapes is a powerful reference to a previous landscape. The Lurie Garden, for example, is a modern, stylized version of an American prairie that now only exists in fragments. The High Line is an artful expression of an abandoned fallow rail track that no longer exists. Look at some of these images of the rail track before and after the design.
 |
| Left: The fallow rail line with spontaneous vegetation; Right: Oudolfs nostalgic interpretation of that vegetation |
The spontaneous vegetation that existed along the rail track had this wonderful quality to it. Oudolf did not imitate it, but he created a designed interpretation that evoked the spirit of the wild vegetation. The loose matrix of grasses with occasional flowering bulbs was a part of the original landscape; Oudolf repeated those patterns, but in a more ornamental fashion.
 |
| A matrix of cool and warm season grasses through which perennials emerge becomes the design concept for Oudolfs plantings |
Nostalgia--the ability of plantings to evoke the memory of a larger landscape--is and should be the heart of our art. “You look at this, and it goes deeper than what you see. It reminds you of something in the genes," Oudolf remarked to an interviewer while looking at a winter landscape, "Nature, or the longing for nature. Allowing the garden to decompose meets an emotional need in people."
For other takes on memory and plants, be sure to check out other GDRT members blog sites:
Andrew Keys : Garden Smackdown : Boston, MA
Deborah Silver : Dirt Simple : Detroit, MI
Genevieve Schmidt : North Coast Gardening : Arcata, CA
Jocelyn Chilvers : The Art Garden : Denver, CO
Lesley Hegarty & Robert Webber : Hegarty WebberPartnership : Bristol, UK
Mary Gallagher Gray : Black Walnut Dispatch : Washington,D.C.
Rebecca Sweet : Gossip In The Garden : Los Altos, CA
Susan Cohan : Miss Rumphius’ Rules : Chatham, NJ
Susan Morrison : Blue Planet Garden Blog : East Bay, CA
Rochelle Greayer : Studio ‘g’ : Boston, MA
Thursday, March 6, 2014
Eucomis
PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION
* photo taken on August 2 2010 in Bayfield, Ontario
Eucomis comosa
11 x 50 inches
Eucomis Sparkling Burgundy ( Purple Pineapple Lily )
A bulbous perennial, reaching a maximum height of 3 feet, that originated as a selection of horticulturalist Tony Avent of North Carolina.
The wavy-margined, strap-shaped leaves, up to 2 feet in length, are deep red.
The purplish flowers are borne on dense clusters during late summer.
Hardy zones 7 to 9 ( 6 on protected site with mulch ) in full sun to partial shade on well drained soil. Keep moist while actively growing and mulched throughout the year.
* photo taken on May 16 2011 in Washington, D.C.
* photos taken on June 23 2013 @ U.S. National Arboretum, DC
Read More..
* photo taken on August 2 2010 in Bayfield, Ontario
Eucomis comosa
11 x 50 inches
Eucomis Sparkling Burgundy ( Purple Pineapple Lily )
A bulbous perennial, reaching a maximum height of 3 feet, that originated as a selection of horticulturalist Tony Avent of North Carolina.
The wavy-margined, strap-shaped leaves, up to 2 feet in length, are deep red.
The purplish flowers are borne on dense clusters during late summer.
Hardy zones 7 to 9 ( 6 on protected site with mulch ) in full sun to partial shade on well drained soil. Keep moist while actively growing and mulched throughout the year.
* photo taken on May 16 2011 in Washington, D.C.
* photos taken on June 23 2013 @ U.S. National Arboretum, DC
Basic Principles of Landscape Design
Dewayne L. Ingram2
Landscaping combines elements of art and science to create a functional, aesthetically pleasing extension of indoor living to the outdoors. One initial purpose of landscape design is to blend mans technology (house or building) into the natural surroundings. To work toward a desirable landscape design, the landscape horticulturist must have a working knowledge of art elements and design principles. This publication is intended for the commercial landscaper with little or no training in the use of these basic principles. This publication is not a complete landscape design text.
ELEMENTS OF ART
Elements of art include but are not limited to color, line, form, texture and scale. These elements are never independent of each other, but we will discuss their individual natures before considering the interactions.
Color variation can best be explained by use of a color wheel ( Figure 1 ). Primary colors are red, blue and yellow. Orange, green and violet are called secondary colors because they are combinations of two primary colors. For example, yellow and red are combined to yield orange. Tertiary colors are the fusion of one primary and one secondary color. These colors would be between primary and secondary colors.
Figure 1
Tint refers to a light value and is accomplished by adding white to the pure color on the color wheel, while shade is a dark value and is created by adding black to the pure color on the color wheel. Black, white and grey are neutrals and are compatible with any color. Light colors and tints tend to attract attention as do bright, vivid colors.
Colors are combined into color schemes for practical applications. Three basic color schemes are monochromatic, analogous and complementary. A monochromatic color scheme consists of different tints and shades of one color and is seldom achieved in its pure form in the landscape. An example of an incomplete monochromatic color scheme would include white and pink flowers with a background of a dark pink and red brick house.
Analogous color schemes combine colors which are adjacent or side-by-side on the color wheel. An analogous color scheme could include green, blue-green, green-blue, blue and violet blue. This color scheme could be achieved by varying the foliage color from green to blue-green or by using pyracantha with orange-red berries against a red brick house.
Complementary color schemes combine colors directly across the color wheel. For example, red and green would be complementary colors. A complementary color scheme may be achieved by using plants with green foliage against a red brick house.
It is possible to have varying color schemes in one area of the landscape as the seasons change. White and pink azaleas flowers can yield a monochromatic color scheme with a red brick house. The green azalea foliage would produce a complementary color for the red brick during the summer. Pyracantha berries would be an analogous color to the red brick in the fall. The landscape designer should consider the color changes throughout the year when developing a landscape plan.
Colors can be used to visually change distance perspective. Warm colors and light tints like red, orange, yellow and white advance an object or area toward the observer. These colors and tints placed near the foundation of a house would make the house appear closer to the street. Cool colors and deep shades like blue, green and black recede and can be used to make the house appear farther from the street. Cool colors are restful while warm colors express action and are best used in filtered light or against a green or dark background.
Color can be used to direct attention in the landscape. Due to this strong characteristic, color should be used carefully. When color is used for this purpose, consideration must be given to year-round color not just to seasonal color. Consideration may also be given to the time of day when this color will be enjoyed. White or light tints could be used to create interest on a patio. Dark colors would add little to family enjoyment of this area as the daylight hours passed.
Line is related to eye movement or flow. The concept and creation of line depends upon the purpose of the design and existing patterns. In the overall landscape, line is inferred by bed arrangement and the way these beds fit or flow together ( Figure 2 ). Line is also created vertically by changes in plant height and the height of tree and shrub canopies. Line in a small area such as an entrance or privacy garden is created by branching habits of plants, arrangement of leaves and/or sequence of plant materials.
Figure 2
Straight lines tend to be forceful, structural and stable and direct the observers eye to a point faster than curved lines. Curved or free-flowing lines are sometimes described as smooth, graceful or gentle and create a relaxing, progressive, moving and natural feeling.
Form and line are closely related. Line is considered usually in terms of the outline or edge of objects, whereas form is more encompassing. The concept of form is related also to the size of an object or area. Form can be discussed in terms of individual plant growth habits or as the planting arrangement in a landscape.
Plant forms include upright, oval, columnar, spreading, broad spreading, weeping, etc. ( Figure 3 ). Form is basically the shape and structure of a plant or mass of plants. Structures also have form and should be considered as such when designing the area around them.
Figure 3
Texture describes the surface quality of an object than can be seen or felt. Surfaces in the landscape includes buildings, walks, patios, groundcovers and plants. The texture of plants differs as the relationships between the leaves, twigs and branches differ ( Figure 4 ). Coarse, medium or fine could be used to describe texture but so could smooth, rough, glossy or dull.
Figure 4
Scale refers to the size of an object or objects in relation to the surroundings. Size refers to definite measurements while scale describes the size relationship between adjacent objects. The size of plantings and buildings compared on the human scale must be considered ( Figure 5 ).
Figure 5
Read More..
Landscaping combines elements of art and science to create a functional, aesthetically pleasing extension of indoor living to the outdoors. One initial purpose of landscape design is to blend mans technology (house or building) into the natural surroundings. To work toward a desirable landscape design, the landscape horticulturist must have a working knowledge of art elements and design principles. This publication is intended for the commercial landscaper with little or no training in the use of these basic principles. This publication is not a complete landscape design text.
ELEMENTS OF ART
Elements of art include but are not limited to color, line, form, texture and scale. These elements are never independent of each other, but we will discuss their individual natures before considering the interactions.
Color variation can best be explained by use of a color wheel ( Figure 1 ). Primary colors are red, blue and yellow. Orange, green and violet are called secondary colors because they are combinations of two primary colors. For example, yellow and red are combined to yield orange. Tertiary colors are the fusion of one primary and one secondary color. These colors would be between primary and secondary colors.
Figure 1
Tint refers to a light value and is accomplished by adding white to the pure color on the color wheel, while shade is a dark value and is created by adding black to the pure color on the color wheel. Black, white and grey are neutrals and are compatible with any color. Light colors and tints tend to attract attention as do bright, vivid colors.
Colors are combined into color schemes for practical applications. Three basic color schemes are monochromatic, analogous and complementary. A monochromatic color scheme consists of different tints and shades of one color and is seldom achieved in its pure form in the landscape. An example of an incomplete monochromatic color scheme would include white and pink flowers with a background of a dark pink and red brick house.
Analogous color schemes combine colors which are adjacent or side-by-side on the color wheel. An analogous color scheme could include green, blue-green, green-blue, blue and violet blue. This color scheme could be achieved by varying the foliage color from green to blue-green or by using pyracantha with orange-red berries against a red brick house.
Complementary color schemes combine colors directly across the color wheel. For example, red and green would be complementary colors. A complementary color scheme may be achieved by using plants with green foliage against a red brick house.
It is possible to have varying color schemes in one area of the landscape as the seasons change. White and pink azaleas flowers can yield a monochromatic color scheme with a red brick house. The green azalea foliage would produce a complementary color for the red brick during the summer. Pyracantha berries would be an analogous color to the red brick in the fall. The landscape designer should consider the color changes throughout the year when developing a landscape plan.
Colors can be used to visually change distance perspective. Warm colors and light tints like red, orange, yellow and white advance an object or area toward the observer. These colors and tints placed near the foundation of a house would make the house appear closer to the street. Cool colors and deep shades like blue, green and black recede and can be used to make the house appear farther from the street. Cool colors are restful while warm colors express action and are best used in filtered light or against a green or dark background.
Color can be used to direct attention in the landscape. Due to this strong characteristic, color should be used carefully. When color is used for this purpose, consideration must be given to year-round color not just to seasonal color. Consideration may also be given to the time of day when this color will be enjoyed. White or light tints could be used to create interest on a patio. Dark colors would add little to family enjoyment of this area as the daylight hours passed.
Line is related to eye movement or flow. The concept and creation of line depends upon the purpose of the design and existing patterns. In the overall landscape, line is inferred by bed arrangement and the way these beds fit or flow together ( Figure 2 ). Line is also created vertically by changes in plant height and the height of tree and shrub canopies. Line in a small area such as an entrance or privacy garden is created by branching habits of plants, arrangement of leaves and/or sequence of plant materials.
Figure 2
Straight lines tend to be forceful, structural and stable and direct the observers eye to a point faster than curved lines. Curved or free-flowing lines are sometimes described as smooth, graceful or gentle and create a relaxing, progressive, moving and natural feeling.
Form and line are closely related. Line is considered usually in terms of the outline or edge of objects, whereas form is more encompassing. The concept of form is related also to the size of an object or area. Form can be discussed in terms of individual plant growth habits or as the planting arrangement in a landscape.
Plant forms include upright, oval, columnar, spreading, broad spreading, weeping, etc. ( Figure 3 ). Form is basically the shape and structure of a plant or mass of plants. Structures also have form and should be considered as such when designing the area around them.
Figure 3
Texture describes the surface quality of an object than can be seen or felt. Surfaces in the landscape includes buildings, walks, patios, groundcovers and plants. The texture of plants differs as the relationships between the leaves, twigs and branches differ ( Figure 4 ). Coarse, medium or fine could be used to describe texture but so could smooth, rough, glossy or dull.
Figure 4
Scale refers to the size of an object or objects in relation to the surroundings. Size refers to definite measurements while scale describes the size relationship between adjacent objects. The size of plantings and buildings compared on the human scale must be considered ( Figure 5 ).
Figure 5
Meaning in Landscape Architecture and Gardening
“Just as there are levels of meaning and discourse in language, ranging from laundry lists to business letters, from narrative fiction to lyric poetry, so too are there levels of meaning in landscape. They range from the mundane to the profound whether they are attractive or disheveled, beautiful or not, small or large…Landscapes are made of many diverse phenomena - visual, aural, tactile, olfactory - that may trigger the recall of things from our own personal environmental history, which in turn combine with a world of information from our education and experience. For this reason there is no question in my mind that the art of landscape design - when it is an art - is possibly the most complex and sophisticated art we possess.”
Laurie Olin from an essay in Meaning in Landscape Architecture & Gardens
Landscaping Design Software
Landscape design software is used to create landscape ideas and view landscaping tasks. Anyone can use this kind of software, whether you are a DIY fanatic or a professional landscaper. It can save you time by reducing the amount of work you end up doing as well as rid you of lots of inconveniences. You can modify your design, view a general concept of how the final design will look and more.But, in order to get your desired results, you have to first understand what your needs are. Lets look at what some of your needs may be and the expectations of using landscape design software.
One of the errors people make is to expect that the design software will do the design for them. This is a big misconception. While some software will have ready-made designs which you can tweak, if you dont have the basic knowledge of landscape design, it can be hard to get the look you want.
The great advantage of landscaping design software is that you dont have to know how to draw. You can create a color plan, 3-D views and be able to make changes in a snap. The downside though is that it can be time consuming to learn to use the features. You have to know how to use the software before you begin designing. In addition, you can only use the materials provided for you in the template chooser and you have to be able to apply your knowledge of landscape design as the software doesnt do the design for you.
Best Way to Plan a Landscape
A great option to juggle both worlds is to sketch a rough draft on paper of what your idea is. Once you have an idea of what you want your design to look like, you can apply the use of the software to create a proper design and allow you to get a 3-D view.
The fundamental aspect of the design, however, is the primary survey. Taking a guess of the size and shape of your landscape is a huge mistake. You can still create a beautiful design but if it doesnt fit the space, then you would have wasted your time. Good design entails fitting together the aspects of the entire area as one unit. Therefore, if a specific area had to be amended, it will have repercussions for the rest of the design as well.
Landscape design software can be downloaded for free. This would be a great option if you are just looking for something to help you sketch a plan or make simple drawings. Software that you can purchase is typically classified in expert groups. These are ideal for professionals wanting to invest in a business tool. For the average homeowner however, it would be too much money spent on something that wouldnt fulfill a significant need.
Before you decide to purchase landscape design software, you should first learn the principles of landscape design and practice on free software to see if you enjoy using computer aided design.
To learn more about landscaping software, as well as other ways to help you create the best outdoor decor, visit http://www.BetterBackyards.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Florin_Ciobanu
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Wednesday, March 5, 2014
Bottlebrush
Callistemon
A genus of close to 30 species of trees and shrubs within the larger Myrtacaceae family. They are all native to Australia.
They can be propagated from seed during fall or spring, or for the cultivars from semi-ripe cuttings taken during summer.
They are more winter hardy where summers are sunny and hot. Most species are tolerant of salt, lime, drought and wet soil though unfortunately many species do not like clay. Many species are preferrably cut back hard every few years to induce vigor.
The flowers attract nectar feeding birds such as Hummingbirds. The Bottlebrushes are deer resistant.
Freeze damaged plants can be cut back hard during early spring, even to the ground. They will often quickly regenerate.
* photos of unknown internet source
* excellent videos found on internet
Callistemon acuminatus ( Twin Leafed Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, rounded, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 15 x 12 feet, that is native to Australias east coast.
The wavy-edged, narrow leaves, up to 5 x 1 inches, are mid-green.
The deep red, dense bottlebrush flowers, up to 9 inches in length, are borne heavily during sring and sporadically for the remainder of the year.
Hardy zones 8 to 11. Very wind tolerant making it an excellent choice for coastal areas. Drought tolerant.
Nabiac Red
Intense deep red flower spikes that are wider than usual.
Callistemon brachyandrus ( Pricky Bottlebrush )
A vigorous, bushy, large, evergreen shrub, reaching up to 17 x 13 feet, that is native to inland parts of eastern Australia.
Some records include: largest on record - 23 x 32 feet with a trunk diameter of 1.5 feet. It is moderately long lived, up to 180 years.
The needle-like leaves, up to 2 inches in length, are green.
The orange-red ( tipped golden-yellow ) bottlebrush flowers, up to 1.6 inches, are borne over a long season during summer, sporadically the remainder of the year.
Hardy zones 8 to 11 in full sun to partial shade. Tolerant of wet soils, clay and both acidic and alkaline soils. Very drought tolerant.
Callistemon citrinus ( Lemon Bottlebrush )
A very fast growing, stiff, dense, rounded, evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 33 x 33 feet, that is native to Australias east coast. Some records include: 5 years - 27 x 20 feet.
The aromatic, lance-shaped leaves, up to 6 x 1 ( rarely over 4 ) inches, are silky pink at first, turning to gray-green. The foliage is lemon-scented.
The profuse, scarlet-red, bottlebrush flower spikes, up to 6 x 2.5 inches, are borne during spring and often repeating during autumn. In tropical climates it may bloom sporadically during the entire year. The flowers attract hummingbirds.
The exfoliating bark is light gray.
Hardy zones 8 to 11, it is known to have survived -2 F however with dieback, with regrowth during spring. Thrives in full sun or partial shade, preferring fertile, acidic, sandy, well drained soil along with a climate with hot summers.. Tolerant of severe drought, wet poorly drained soil and moderately tolerant of salt breezes. Prune after blooming to promote vigor.
Young trees will often need pruning to develop a good tree-like habit. Serious insect pests and disease problems are rare, however root rot may occur on poorly drained sites.
Propagation is from semi-ripe cuttings taken during summer. The species can be grown from seed which germinates easily without pretreatment.
* excellent video found on internet
Austraflora Firebrand
Low and arching, reaching a maximum size of 7 x 13 feet. The foliage is silvery-pink at first, turning to green.
The profuse flowers are bright scarlet-red.
Burgundy
Dense in habit, with foliage that is attractive pinkish-red at first.
The profuse, deep red flowers are borne on spikes, up to 4 inches in length.
Jeffersii
Dwarf in habit, reaching up to 6 feet.
Hardy zones 8b+
Red Giant
Very vigorous and dense, reaching over 10 feet in height.
The large leaves are gray-green.
The huge red bottlebrush flower spikes are borne during spring.
Hardier, north to zone 8b+ ( possibly zone 8a in hot summer climates )
Reeves Pink
Bottlebrush clusters of flowers that are pink and tipped in golden-yellow.
Splendens
Broader leaves and profuse intense scarlet-red flowers borne over a long season.
The foliage is bronzy-red at first, turning to grayish-green.
Violaceous
Upright with rather broad leaves.
Hardier, north to zone 8b ( tolerating 12 F )
White Anzac
Reaches a maximum size of 10 x 10 feet, with foliage that is bright green at first and bearing white bottlebrush flowers. Some records include: 5 years - 8 x 8 feet.
Callistemon Clemson
An upright, spreading, evergreen shrub, reaching up to 6 x 6 feet.
The foliage is blue-green.
The very large, brilliant red bottlebrushes are intense scarlet-red.
This along with C. Woodlanders Hardy is among the best Bottlebrushes for the southeastern U.S. Hardy zones 7a+ ( tolerating as low as -9 F ).
Callistemon comboyensis ( Comboy Bottlebrush )
An attractive, moderate growing, bushy, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 10 feet, that is native to mountainous areas along Australias east coast.
The narrow leaves, up to 4 x 0.5 inches, are silky pink at first, turning to green.
The very profuse, intense oragne-red bottlebrush flowers, up to 6 inches in length, are borne spring through fall.
Hardy zones 9 to 11, no damage at 21 F, it has not been tested in zone 8. It requires excellent drainage but is clay tolerant on slopes. Prune after flowering to encourage dense habit.
Callistemon formosus ( Cliff Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, weeping evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 20 x 13 feet, that is native to a tiny area in southestern Queensland in Australia.
The pointed, narrow leaves are bright red at first, turning to green.
The profuse, pale yellow, dense bottlebrush flowers are borne winter and spring.
Hardy zones 10 to 11
Carmina
Intense deep red flowers.
Callistemon glaucus ( Albany Bottlebrush )
A very attractive, moderate growing, upright, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 10 feet.
The leathery leaves, up to 6 inches in length, are dull green.
The deep red, dense bottlebrush flowers, up to 6 x 3 inches, are borne over a long season during spring and summer.
Hardy zones 8 to 11, thriving on moist to swampy sites.
Callistemon Harkness
A moderate growing, semi-pendulous, rounded, evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum height of 20 feet.
The leaves, up to 7 x 0.5 inches, are pinkish at first.
The profuse, very long, scarlet-red bottlebrush flowers, up to 10 inches in length, during late spring and fall, weigh the branches down.
Hardy zones 8b to 11. Remove lower limbs to encourage a tree like habit.
Callistemon Kings Park Special
A moderate growing, bushy, evergreen, large shrub, reaching a maximum size of 17 x 13 feet.
Makes a great screen.
The profuse, scarlet-red bottlebrush flowers are borne spring into early summer.
Hardy zones 8b to 11, tolerates drought and is somewhat tolerant of salt spray.
Callistemon linearis ( Narrow-Leafed Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, open, stiffly branched, evergreen tree, reaching a maximum size of 33 x 33 ( rarely over 17 ) feet, that is native to temperate regions in eastern Australia. Some records include: 5 years - 8 x 8 feet.
The thick, very narrow leaves, up to 6 inches in length, are mid-green.
The deep red, dense bottlebrush flowers, up to 5 x 2.5 inches, are borne late spring into early summer.
Hardy zones 8 to 11, tolerating as low as 0 F, in full sun to partial shade. Tolerant of wet soil, clay, some salt spray, acidic and alkaline soils. It typically branches low unless pruned otherwise.
Callistemon Little John
A bushy, evergreen small shrub, reaching a maximum size of 6 x 5 feet. Some records include: 15 years - 5 feet.
The profuse deep red flowers are borne spring through fall.
Hardy zones 8b to 11
Callistemon Mauve Mist
A moderate growing, dense, rounded, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 15 x 12 feet.
The leaves, up to 2.5 inches in length, are silky and silvery at first.
The purplish-pink bottlebrush flowers, up to 4 inches in length, are borne all summer long.
Hardy zones 8b to 11
Callistemon montanus ( Mountain Bottlebrush )
A handsome, upright, evergreen, large shrub to small tree, reaching a maximum size of 20 x 8 ( rarely over 12 ) feet, that is native to Australias east coast.
The narrow-oblanceolate leaves, up to 4 x 0.4 inches, are pinkish at first, turning to glossy bright green.
The deep red bottlbrush flowers, up to 3 inches in length, are borne during spring to early summer.
Hardy zones 9b to 10 ( tolerating 18 F ). Drought tolerant.
Callistemon Old Duninald
A compact, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 7 x 7 feet.
The pointed, narrow-elliptical leaves are green.
The scarlet-red ( with yellow stamens ) bottlebrush flowers spikes are borne during late spring and summer.
Callistemon pachyphyllus ( Wallum Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, open, spreading, medium-sized, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 7 feet, that is native to coastal eastern Australia.
The thick leaves, up to 3 x 0.5 inches, are dull green.
The scarlet-red bottlebrush flowers, up to 4 inches in length, are borne spring and summer, randomly for the remainder of the year.
Hardy zones 9 to 11, tolerates coastal exposure and wet soil. To encourage dense habit, prune hard after flowering.
Callistemon pallidus ( Lemon Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, gracefully arching, dense, evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 27 x 20 ( rarely over 15 x 10 ) feet, that is native to southeastern Australia. Some records include: 5 years - 12 x 8 feet.
The aromatic leaves, up to 4 inches in length, are silky silvery-pink at first, turning to gray-green.
The pale yellow, dense, bottlebrush flower-spikes, up to 5 x 2 inches, are borne late spring and summer. Cultivars with red flowers are known.
The bark is attractive and peeling.
Hardy zones 8 to 11 ( tolerating as low as 2 F ) in full sun to partial shade; preferring moist, fertile, acidic, well drained soil. It is among the very few Bottlebrushes that will grow in Washington state. It also tolerates annual rainfall as low as 18 inches. Typically branches down to the ground unless pruned otherwise. Tolerates heavy pruning, drought and even reflected heat against a south facing wall.
Austraflora Candle Glow
Spreading and low growing, with foliage that is silvery at first. The pale yellow bottlebrush flowers are up to 4 x 2 inches.
Best Blues
Dense in habit, with striking, aromatic foliage that is silky and silvery at first, turning to blue.
Hardy zones 8a+
Eleanor
Vigorous, compact, dense and arching, reaching up to 6 x 4 feet in 5 years, eventually more.
The attractive foliage is blue-gray.
The flowers are reddish-violet.
Hardy zones 8b to 10 ( tolerating 12 F ).
Callistemon pearsonii ( Blackdown Bottlebrush )
A handsome, moderate growing, somewhat open, multi-stemmed, evergreen small shrub, reaching a maximum size of 6.5 x 5 feet, that is native to eastern Queensland in Australia.
The crowded, sharp-pointed, stiff leaves, up to 1 inch, are very silky at first, turning to green.
The scarlet-red bottlebrush flowers are borne over a long season from spring into early summer.
Hardy zones 9 to 11. Prune regularly to keep a dense habit.
Callistemon Perth Pink
A compact, dense, evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 16 x 20 feet. Some records include: 5 years - 6.5 x 10 feet.
The foliage is pinkish at first.
The large, deep pink, bottlebrush flowers are borne during spring.
Hardy zones 8b to 11. Moderately drought tolerant.
Callistemon phoeniceus ( Fiery Bottlebrush )
A fast growing, sturdy, somewhat pendulous, bushy, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 13 x 20 feet, that is native to far southwestern Australia.
Some records include: 10 years - 10 x 6.5 feet.
The thick, narrow leaves, up to 5 ( rarely over 4 ) inches in length, are gray-green.
The scarlet-red, bottlebrush flowers, up to 4 inches in length, are borne early spring through summer.
Hardy zones 9 to 11, tolerating as low as 18 F. Tolerates wet soil, clay, drought, acidic and alkaline soils.
Demesne Western Royal
Compact and spreading in habit, reaching a maximum size of 5 x 5 feet.
Pink Ice
Pink flowers.
Callistemon pinifolius ( Pine-Leafed Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, somewhat pendulous, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 13 x 13 feet, that is native to eastern Australia.
The leaves, up to inches, are green.
The green ( rarely red ) bottlebrush flowers, up to 3 inches in length, are borne over a long season during spring.
Hardy zones 8b to 11, thriving in cool summer climates only. Very wet, clay and drought tolerant. Prune frequently to encourage dense habit.
Callistemon pityoides ( Mountain Bottlebrush )
A fast growing to invasive, dense, rounded, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 17 x 8 feet, that is native to high mountains of eastern Australia. Some records include: 8 years - 12 feet. From a distance, it looks like a conifer.
The sharp-tipped, needle-like, linear leaves, up to 1.5 inches in length, are pinkish at first, turning to green.
The creamy-yellow, bottlebrush flowers, up to 6 x 1 inches, are borne late spring to mid summer.
Hardy zones 7 to 11 ( tolerating 0 F ) in full sun on acidic well drained soil. It enjoys a cool climate and regular water, tolerating wet conditions, snow and almost any soil. Thrives in parts of England. Deer resistant.
Excellent
A very hardy clone, tolerating as low as 0 F.
It blooms during late spring, repeating heavily during autumn.
Callistemon polandii ( Goldtip Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, pendulous, dense, evergreen large shrub, reaching a maximum size of 17 x 10 feet, that is native to the coast of central Queensland in Australia. Makes a great screen or windbreak.
The leaves, up to 6 inches in length, are silky silvery-pink at first, turning to bright green.
The scarlet-red ( tipped yellow ), bottlebrush flowers, up to 6 inches in length, are over a long season during winter and spring.
Hardy zones 9 to 12 on moist soil.
Peak Downs
Foliage is red at first.
Callistemon recurvus ( Tinaroo Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, bushy evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 20 x 8 feet, that is native to the northern tip of Queensland in Australia.
The foliage is silky bright pink at first, turning to deep green
The profuse, deep red, bottlebrush flowers are borne on spikes during late winter and spring.
Hardy zones 9 to 11. Prune after flowering to encourage dense habit.
Callistemon rigidus ( Stiff Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, stiff, erect, evergreen, small tree that is native to Australias eastern coast.
Some records include: fastest growth rate - 3 feet; largest on record - 62 x 40 feet with a trunk diameter of 2.5 feet. Makes a great windbreak or screen.
The stiff, pointed narrow leaves, up to 6 ( rarely over 5 ) inches in length, are silky at first, turning to dull green.
The very showy, deep red, dense, bottlebrush flowers, up to 4.5 inches in length, are borne all summer long.
Hardy zones 7b to 11, tolerating as low as 2 F, preferring full sun on fertile, acidic, sandy, well drained soil. It is known to grow in the Pacific Northwest. Tolerates wet soil,drought and hard pruning. Young trees may need to be trained to a good tree form. May be prone to mites in some regions.
Clemson
Compact in habit, reaching a maximum size of 12 x 8 feet.
The foliage is blue-green.
The very large, scarlet-red flowers persist from late spring until autumn freeze.
Hardy north to zone 7, tolerating as low as - 8 F.
Known to grow in Louisville, Kentucky.
Callistemon rugulosus ( Scarlet Bottlebrush )
Also called Callistemon macropunctatus. A moderate growing, dense, spreading, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 17 x 17 feet, that is native to southern Australia. It makes a great windbreak or hedge.
Some records include: 10 years - 17 x 17 feet.
The leathery, lance-shaped leaves, up to 4 x 2 inches, are green.
The showy, deep red ( tipped golden-yellow ) bottlebrush flowers, up to 4 inches in length, are borne on spikes from spring through fall.
The attractive bark is peeling and white.
Hardy zones 8b to 11 ( tolerating 10 F ) in full sun to partial shade. It tolerates moderate frost, clay, drought and wet poorly drained soil.
Callistemon salignus ( White Bottlebrush )
An attractive, fast growing, dense, semi-weeping, evergreen medium-size tree, reaching a maximum size of 60 x 40 feet, that is native to coastal eastern Australia. Some records include: fastest growth rate - 3 feet; 20 years - 40 x 20 feet.
The leaves, up to 4.5 x 0.3 inches, are silky reddish-pink at first, turning to green.
The profuse, creamy-white, bottlebrush flowers, up to 4 inches in length, are borne during spring into early summer. There is a form with red flowers.
The attractive papery bark is white.
Hardy zones 8 to 11, ( tolerating as low as 0 F ) on moist soil. It is known to grow in the Pacific Northwest. It is tolerant of both flooding and drought.
Prune off lower branches when young to encourage tree-like habit. Deer resistant.
Eureka
Bushy and upright in habit. The young foliage is purplish-red.
The flowers are intense mid-pink.
Callistemon sieberi ( River Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, pendulous, bushy evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 33 x 17 ( rarely over 17 ) feet, that is native to much of southeastern Australia.
Some records incldue: 5 years - 5 x 5 feet; 10 years - 6.5 x 6 feet.
The thick, prickly, narrow leaves, up to 2.5 ( rarely over 1.6 ) inches, are gray-green to deep olive-green.
The creamy-yellow, bottlebrush flowers, up to 6 inches in length, are borne late spring and summer. It often repeat blooms in the fall.
The young shoots are silky pink.
The papery bark is very attractive.
Hardy zones 8 to 11 ( possibly zone 7 and has been reported to tolerate -9 F with no injury ) in full sun to partial shade. Alpine clones should be tested as far north as zone 5 for winter hardiness.
Very tolerant of drought and clay.
Callistemon speciosus
An erect tree, reaching a maximum size of 50 x 40 feet.
The narrow leaves, up to 6 x 0.3 inches, are blue-green.
The deep red ( with golden-yellow anthers ) flowers are up to 6 x 3.2 inches in size.
Hardy zones 9 to 11 on moist soil.
Callistemon subulatus ( Tonghi Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, dense, arching, spreading, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 9 ( rarely over 5 ) feet. Some records include: 10 years - 5 x 6.5 feet.
The shart-tipped, needle-like leaves, up to 1.7 inches in length, are glossy green.
The profuse, showy, deep-red bottlebrush flowers, up to 3.2 inches in length, are borne late spring through summer. The flowers are heavy enough to weigh down the branches.
Hardy zones 8 to 11 ( tolerating as low as 0 F ) in full sun to partial shade on moist soil.
It is among the few Bottlebrushes that grow in Washington State.
Tolerant of wet poorly drained soil as well as clay and drought ( prefers dry summers ). Prune after flowering to encourage dense compact habit.
Dawn of Time
Reported to be even hardier, north to zone 7b
Hot Pink
Similar except for having deep pink flowers.
Hardy zones 8+ ( tolerating as low as 5 F )
Callistemon teretifolius ( Needle-Leafed Bottlebrush )
A handsome, moderate growing, spreading, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 13 feet, that is native to drier parts of South Australia.
The sharp-tipped, green leaves, up to 6 inches in length, resemble pine needles.
The profuse, dense, deep red flowers are borne on bottlebrush spikes, up to 5 inches in length, over a long season during spring and summer.
Hardy zones 8 to 11. Tolerates moderate frosts and is very drought tolerant.
Callistemon viminalis ( Weeping Bottlebrush )
A very attractive, strong branched, fast growing, weeping, large, evergreen tree, that is native to Australias east coast. Some records include: 20 years - 60 x 27 feet; largest on record - 70 x 40 feet with a trunk diameter of 3 feet; largest in Arizona - 60 feet in 60 years.
The lance-shaped leaves, up to 6 inches in length, are hairy bronze turning to bright green.
The showy, scarlet-red, bottlebrush flowers, up to 8 ( rarely over 4 ) inches in length, are borne during spring and early summer ( sporadically for the remainder of the year ).
The attractive bark is whitish and scaly.
Hardy zones 9 to 11 in full sun to partial shade. Tolerant of both very wet soil, drought, clay and alkaline soil; it can grow in climates with as little as 16 inches of annual rainfall. Moderately salt tolerant.
Captain Cook
Dense and bushy, reaching a maximum size of 33 x 16 feet.
The foliage is reddish-pink at first.
The dennse, red, bottlebrush flowers are up to 6 inches in length.
Dawson River
A weeping tree, reaching a maximum size of 60 x 40 feet.
The deep red, bottlebrush flowers are up to 5 inches in length.
Hannah Ray
A weeping tree, reaching a maximum size of 30 x 20 feet.
The flowers are intense red.
Wild River
A dense, bushy, large shrub to small tree, reaching a maximum size of 20 x 20 feet.
The leaves are very narrow. The broad bottlebrush flowers are red.
Wilderness White
A large white flowering form.
Callistemon viridiflorus ( Green Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, erect, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 13 x 8 feet, that is native to Tasmania. It makes a great hedge.
The stiff leaves, up to 1.3 x 0.4 inches, are deep green. The foliage turns to deep reddish-purple during winter.
The greenish-yellow bottlebrush flowers are borne on dense bottlebrush spikes, up to 4 x 1.5 inches, during late spring and summer.
The attractive bark is light tan color.
Hardy zones 7 to 10, tolerating as low as -2 F. It is among the few Bottlebrushes to thrive in Washington State. Very tolerant of poorly drained wet soil as well as heat and drought. Prune after flowering for dense habit.
Callistemon Western Glory
An evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 13 x 10 feet.
The leaves are up to 3 inches in length.
The profuse, pinkish-red, bottlebrush flowers are borne during spring, often repeating in fall.
Hardy zones 8b to 11. Drought tolerant once fully established.
Callistemon Woodlanders Hardy
A very attractive, fast growing, arching, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 8 feet, that originated at Woodlanders Nursery at Aiken, South Carolina. It likely has Callistemon sieberi in its parentage. Some records include; 5 years - 4 x 4 feet.
The needle-like leaves are green.
The scarlet-red bottlebrush flowers are borne during early summer.
The bark is very attractive.
Hardy zones 6+. Tolerates hot humid summers in the southeastern U.S. and is known to
grow in North Carolina as well as in the Pacific Northwest. Drought tolerant.
Prune after flowering to encourage dense habit.
Read More..
A genus of close to 30 species of trees and shrubs within the larger Myrtacaceae family. They are all native to Australia.
They can be propagated from seed during fall or spring, or for the cultivars from semi-ripe cuttings taken during summer.
They are more winter hardy where summers are sunny and hot. Most species are tolerant of salt, lime, drought and wet soil though unfortunately many species do not like clay. Many species are preferrably cut back hard every few years to induce vigor.
The flowers attract nectar feeding birds such as Hummingbirds. The Bottlebrushes are deer resistant.
Freeze damaged plants can be cut back hard during early spring, even to the ground. They will often quickly regenerate.
* photos of unknown internet source
* excellent videos found on internet
Callistemon acuminatus ( Twin Leafed Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, rounded, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 15 x 12 feet, that is native to Australias east coast.
The wavy-edged, narrow leaves, up to 5 x 1 inches, are mid-green.
The deep red, dense bottlebrush flowers, up to 9 inches in length, are borne heavily during sring and sporadically for the remainder of the year.
Hardy zones 8 to 11. Very wind tolerant making it an excellent choice for coastal areas. Drought tolerant.
Nabiac Red
Intense deep red flower spikes that are wider than usual.
Callistemon brachyandrus ( Pricky Bottlebrush )
A vigorous, bushy, large, evergreen shrub, reaching up to 17 x 13 feet, that is native to inland parts of eastern Australia.
Some records include: largest on record - 23 x 32 feet with a trunk diameter of 1.5 feet. It is moderately long lived, up to 180 years.
The needle-like leaves, up to 2 inches in length, are green.
The orange-red ( tipped golden-yellow ) bottlebrush flowers, up to 1.6 inches, are borne over a long season during summer, sporadically the remainder of the year.
Hardy zones 8 to 11 in full sun to partial shade. Tolerant of wet soils, clay and both acidic and alkaline soils. Very drought tolerant.
Callistemon citrinus ( Lemon Bottlebrush )
A very fast growing, stiff, dense, rounded, evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 33 x 33 feet, that is native to Australias east coast. Some records include: 5 years - 27 x 20 feet.
The aromatic, lance-shaped leaves, up to 6 x 1 ( rarely over 4 ) inches, are silky pink at first, turning to gray-green. The foliage is lemon-scented.
The profuse, scarlet-red, bottlebrush flower spikes, up to 6 x 2.5 inches, are borne during spring and often repeating during autumn. In tropical climates it may bloom sporadically during the entire year. The flowers attract hummingbirds.
The exfoliating bark is light gray.
Hardy zones 8 to 11, it is known to have survived -2 F however with dieback, with regrowth during spring. Thrives in full sun or partial shade, preferring fertile, acidic, sandy, well drained soil along with a climate with hot summers.. Tolerant of severe drought, wet poorly drained soil and moderately tolerant of salt breezes. Prune after blooming to promote vigor.
Young trees will often need pruning to develop a good tree-like habit. Serious insect pests and disease problems are rare, however root rot may occur on poorly drained sites.
Propagation is from semi-ripe cuttings taken during summer. The species can be grown from seed which germinates easily without pretreatment.
* excellent video found on internet
Austraflora Firebrand
Low and arching, reaching a maximum size of 7 x 13 feet. The foliage is silvery-pink at first, turning to green.
The profuse flowers are bright scarlet-red.
Burgundy
Dense in habit, with foliage that is attractive pinkish-red at first.
The profuse, deep red flowers are borne on spikes, up to 4 inches in length.
Jeffersii
Dwarf in habit, reaching up to 6 feet.
Hardy zones 8b+
Red Giant
Very vigorous and dense, reaching over 10 feet in height.
The large leaves are gray-green.
The huge red bottlebrush flower spikes are borne during spring.
Hardier, north to zone 8b+ ( possibly zone 8a in hot summer climates )
Reeves Pink
Bottlebrush clusters of flowers that are pink and tipped in golden-yellow.
Splendens
Broader leaves and profuse intense scarlet-red flowers borne over a long season.
The foliage is bronzy-red at first, turning to grayish-green.
Violaceous
Upright with rather broad leaves.
Hardier, north to zone 8b ( tolerating 12 F )
White Anzac
Reaches a maximum size of 10 x 10 feet, with foliage that is bright green at first and bearing white bottlebrush flowers. Some records include: 5 years - 8 x 8 feet.
Callistemon Clemson
An upright, spreading, evergreen shrub, reaching up to 6 x 6 feet.
The foliage is blue-green.
The very large, brilliant red bottlebrushes are intense scarlet-red.
This along with C. Woodlanders Hardy is among the best Bottlebrushes for the southeastern U.S. Hardy zones 7a+ ( tolerating as low as -9 F ).
Callistemon comboyensis ( Comboy Bottlebrush )
An attractive, moderate growing, bushy, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 10 feet, that is native to mountainous areas along Australias east coast.
The narrow leaves, up to 4 x 0.5 inches, are silky pink at first, turning to green.
The very profuse, intense oragne-red bottlebrush flowers, up to 6 inches in length, are borne spring through fall.
Hardy zones 9 to 11, no damage at 21 F, it has not been tested in zone 8. It requires excellent drainage but is clay tolerant on slopes. Prune after flowering to encourage dense habit.
Callistemon formosus ( Cliff Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, weeping evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 20 x 13 feet, that is native to a tiny area in southestern Queensland in Australia.
The pointed, narrow leaves are bright red at first, turning to green.
The profuse, pale yellow, dense bottlebrush flowers are borne winter and spring.
Hardy zones 10 to 11
Carmina
Intense deep red flowers.
Callistemon glaucus ( Albany Bottlebrush )
A very attractive, moderate growing, upright, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 10 feet.
The leathery leaves, up to 6 inches in length, are dull green.
The deep red, dense bottlebrush flowers, up to 6 x 3 inches, are borne over a long season during spring and summer.
Hardy zones 8 to 11, thriving on moist to swampy sites.
Callistemon Harkness
A moderate growing, semi-pendulous, rounded, evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum height of 20 feet.
The leaves, up to 7 x 0.5 inches, are pinkish at first.
The profuse, very long, scarlet-red bottlebrush flowers, up to 10 inches in length, during late spring and fall, weigh the branches down.
Hardy zones 8b to 11. Remove lower limbs to encourage a tree like habit.
Callistemon Kings Park Special
A moderate growing, bushy, evergreen, large shrub, reaching a maximum size of 17 x 13 feet.
Makes a great screen.
The profuse, scarlet-red bottlebrush flowers are borne spring into early summer.
Hardy zones 8b to 11, tolerates drought and is somewhat tolerant of salt spray.
Callistemon linearis ( Narrow-Leafed Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, open, stiffly branched, evergreen tree, reaching a maximum size of 33 x 33 ( rarely over 17 ) feet, that is native to temperate regions in eastern Australia. Some records include: 5 years - 8 x 8 feet.
The thick, very narrow leaves, up to 6 inches in length, are mid-green.
The deep red, dense bottlebrush flowers, up to 5 x 2.5 inches, are borne late spring into early summer.
Hardy zones 8 to 11, tolerating as low as 0 F, in full sun to partial shade. Tolerant of wet soil, clay, some salt spray, acidic and alkaline soils. It typically branches low unless pruned otherwise.
Callistemon Little John
A bushy, evergreen small shrub, reaching a maximum size of 6 x 5 feet. Some records include: 15 years - 5 feet.
The profuse deep red flowers are borne spring through fall.
Hardy zones 8b to 11
Callistemon Mauve Mist
A moderate growing, dense, rounded, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 15 x 12 feet.
The leaves, up to 2.5 inches in length, are silky and silvery at first.
The purplish-pink bottlebrush flowers, up to 4 inches in length, are borne all summer long.
Hardy zones 8b to 11
Callistemon montanus ( Mountain Bottlebrush )
A handsome, upright, evergreen, large shrub to small tree, reaching a maximum size of 20 x 8 ( rarely over 12 ) feet, that is native to Australias east coast.
The narrow-oblanceolate leaves, up to 4 x 0.4 inches, are pinkish at first, turning to glossy bright green.
The deep red bottlbrush flowers, up to 3 inches in length, are borne during spring to early summer.
Hardy zones 9b to 10 ( tolerating 18 F ). Drought tolerant.
Callistemon Old Duninald
A compact, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 7 x 7 feet.
The pointed, narrow-elliptical leaves are green.
The scarlet-red ( with yellow stamens ) bottlebrush flowers spikes are borne during late spring and summer.
Callistemon pachyphyllus ( Wallum Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, open, spreading, medium-sized, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 7 feet, that is native to coastal eastern Australia.
The thick leaves, up to 3 x 0.5 inches, are dull green.
The scarlet-red bottlebrush flowers, up to 4 inches in length, are borne spring and summer, randomly for the remainder of the year.
Hardy zones 9 to 11, tolerates coastal exposure and wet soil. To encourage dense habit, prune hard after flowering.
Callistemon pallidus ( Lemon Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, gracefully arching, dense, evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 27 x 20 ( rarely over 15 x 10 ) feet, that is native to southeastern Australia. Some records include: 5 years - 12 x 8 feet.
The aromatic leaves, up to 4 inches in length, are silky silvery-pink at first, turning to gray-green.
The pale yellow, dense, bottlebrush flower-spikes, up to 5 x 2 inches, are borne late spring and summer. Cultivars with red flowers are known.
The bark is attractive and peeling.
Hardy zones 8 to 11 ( tolerating as low as 2 F ) in full sun to partial shade; preferring moist, fertile, acidic, well drained soil. It is among the very few Bottlebrushes that will grow in Washington state. It also tolerates annual rainfall as low as 18 inches. Typically branches down to the ground unless pruned otherwise. Tolerates heavy pruning, drought and even reflected heat against a south facing wall.
Austraflora Candle Glow
Spreading and low growing, with foliage that is silvery at first. The pale yellow bottlebrush flowers are up to 4 x 2 inches.
Best Blues
Dense in habit, with striking, aromatic foliage that is silky and silvery at first, turning to blue.
Hardy zones 8a+
Eleanor
Vigorous, compact, dense and arching, reaching up to 6 x 4 feet in 5 years, eventually more.
The attractive foliage is blue-gray.
The flowers are reddish-violet.
Hardy zones 8b to 10 ( tolerating 12 F ).
Callistemon pearsonii ( Blackdown Bottlebrush )
A handsome, moderate growing, somewhat open, multi-stemmed, evergreen small shrub, reaching a maximum size of 6.5 x 5 feet, that is native to eastern Queensland in Australia.
The crowded, sharp-pointed, stiff leaves, up to 1 inch, are very silky at first, turning to green.
The scarlet-red bottlebrush flowers are borne over a long season from spring into early summer.
Hardy zones 9 to 11. Prune regularly to keep a dense habit.
Callistemon Perth Pink
A compact, dense, evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 16 x 20 feet. Some records include: 5 years - 6.5 x 10 feet.
The foliage is pinkish at first.
The large, deep pink, bottlebrush flowers are borne during spring.
Hardy zones 8b to 11. Moderately drought tolerant.
Callistemon phoeniceus ( Fiery Bottlebrush )
A fast growing, sturdy, somewhat pendulous, bushy, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 13 x 20 feet, that is native to far southwestern Australia.
Some records include: 10 years - 10 x 6.5 feet.
The thick, narrow leaves, up to 5 ( rarely over 4 ) inches in length, are gray-green.
The scarlet-red, bottlebrush flowers, up to 4 inches in length, are borne early spring through summer.
Hardy zones 9 to 11, tolerating as low as 18 F. Tolerates wet soil, clay, drought, acidic and alkaline soils.
Demesne Western Royal
Compact and spreading in habit, reaching a maximum size of 5 x 5 feet.
Pink Ice
Pink flowers.
Callistemon pinifolius ( Pine-Leafed Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, somewhat pendulous, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 13 x 13 feet, that is native to eastern Australia.
The leaves, up to inches, are green.
The green ( rarely red ) bottlebrush flowers, up to 3 inches in length, are borne over a long season during spring.
Hardy zones 8b to 11, thriving in cool summer climates only. Very wet, clay and drought tolerant. Prune frequently to encourage dense habit.
Callistemon pityoides ( Mountain Bottlebrush )
A fast growing to invasive, dense, rounded, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 17 x 8 feet, that is native to high mountains of eastern Australia. Some records include: 8 years - 12 feet. From a distance, it looks like a conifer.
The sharp-tipped, needle-like, linear leaves, up to 1.5 inches in length, are pinkish at first, turning to green.
The creamy-yellow, bottlebrush flowers, up to 6 x 1 inches, are borne late spring to mid summer.
Hardy zones 7 to 11 ( tolerating 0 F ) in full sun on acidic well drained soil. It enjoys a cool climate and regular water, tolerating wet conditions, snow and almost any soil. Thrives in parts of England. Deer resistant.
Excellent
A very hardy clone, tolerating as low as 0 F.
It blooms during late spring, repeating heavily during autumn.
Callistemon polandii ( Goldtip Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, pendulous, dense, evergreen large shrub, reaching a maximum size of 17 x 10 feet, that is native to the coast of central Queensland in Australia. Makes a great screen or windbreak.
The leaves, up to 6 inches in length, are silky silvery-pink at first, turning to bright green.
The scarlet-red ( tipped yellow ), bottlebrush flowers, up to 6 inches in length, are over a long season during winter and spring.
Hardy zones 9 to 12 on moist soil.
Peak Downs
Foliage is red at first.
Callistemon recurvus ( Tinaroo Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, bushy evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 20 x 8 feet, that is native to the northern tip of Queensland in Australia.
The foliage is silky bright pink at first, turning to deep green
The profuse, deep red, bottlebrush flowers are borne on spikes during late winter and spring.
Hardy zones 9 to 11. Prune after flowering to encourage dense habit.
Callistemon rigidus ( Stiff Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, stiff, erect, evergreen, small tree that is native to Australias eastern coast.
Some records include: fastest growth rate - 3 feet; largest on record - 62 x 40 feet with a trunk diameter of 2.5 feet. Makes a great windbreak or screen.
The stiff, pointed narrow leaves, up to 6 ( rarely over 5 ) inches in length, are silky at first, turning to dull green.
The very showy, deep red, dense, bottlebrush flowers, up to 4.5 inches in length, are borne all summer long.
Hardy zones 7b to 11, tolerating as low as 2 F, preferring full sun on fertile, acidic, sandy, well drained soil. It is known to grow in the Pacific Northwest. Tolerates wet soil,drought and hard pruning. Young trees may need to be trained to a good tree form. May be prone to mites in some regions.
Clemson
Compact in habit, reaching a maximum size of 12 x 8 feet.
The foliage is blue-green.
The very large, scarlet-red flowers persist from late spring until autumn freeze.
Hardy north to zone 7, tolerating as low as - 8 F.
Known to grow in Louisville, Kentucky.
Callistemon rugulosus ( Scarlet Bottlebrush )
Also called Callistemon macropunctatus. A moderate growing, dense, spreading, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 17 x 17 feet, that is native to southern Australia. It makes a great windbreak or hedge.
Some records include: 10 years - 17 x 17 feet.
The leathery, lance-shaped leaves, up to 4 x 2 inches, are green.
The showy, deep red ( tipped golden-yellow ) bottlebrush flowers, up to 4 inches in length, are borne on spikes from spring through fall.
The attractive bark is peeling and white.
Hardy zones 8b to 11 ( tolerating 10 F ) in full sun to partial shade. It tolerates moderate frost, clay, drought and wet poorly drained soil.
Callistemon salignus ( White Bottlebrush )
An attractive, fast growing, dense, semi-weeping, evergreen medium-size tree, reaching a maximum size of 60 x 40 feet, that is native to coastal eastern Australia. Some records include: fastest growth rate - 3 feet; 20 years - 40 x 20 feet.
The leaves, up to 4.5 x 0.3 inches, are silky reddish-pink at first, turning to green.
The profuse, creamy-white, bottlebrush flowers, up to 4 inches in length, are borne during spring into early summer. There is a form with red flowers.
The attractive papery bark is white.
Hardy zones 8 to 11, ( tolerating as low as 0 F ) on moist soil. It is known to grow in the Pacific Northwest. It is tolerant of both flooding and drought.
Prune off lower branches when young to encourage tree-like habit. Deer resistant.
Eureka
Bushy and upright in habit. The young foliage is purplish-red.
The flowers are intense mid-pink.
Callistemon sieberi ( River Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, pendulous, bushy evergreen small tree, reaching a maximum size of 33 x 17 ( rarely over 17 ) feet, that is native to much of southeastern Australia.
Some records incldue: 5 years - 5 x 5 feet; 10 years - 6.5 x 6 feet.
The thick, prickly, narrow leaves, up to 2.5 ( rarely over 1.6 ) inches, are gray-green to deep olive-green.
The creamy-yellow, bottlebrush flowers, up to 6 inches in length, are borne late spring and summer. It often repeat blooms in the fall.
The young shoots are silky pink.
The papery bark is very attractive.
Hardy zones 8 to 11 ( possibly zone 7 and has been reported to tolerate -9 F with no injury ) in full sun to partial shade. Alpine clones should be tested as far north as zone 5 for winter hardiness.
Very tolerant of drought and clay.
Callistemon speciosus
An erect tree, reaching a maximum size of 50 x 40 feet.
The narrow leaves, up to 6 x 0.3 inches, are blue-green.
The deep red ( with golden-yellow anthers ) flowers are up to 6 x 3.2 inches in size.
Hardy zones 9 to 11 on moist soil.
Callistemon subulatus ( Tonghi Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, dense, arching, spreading, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 9 ( rarely over 5 ) feet. Some records include: 10 years - 5 x 6.5 feet.
The shart-tipped, needle-like leaves, up to 1.7 inches in length, are glossy green.
The profuse, showy, deep-red bottlebrush flowers, up to 3.2 inches in length, are borne late spring through summer. The flowers are heavy enough to weigh down the branches.
Hardy zones 8 to 11 ( tolerating as low as 0 F ) in full sun to partial shade on moist soil.
It is among the few Bottlebrushes that grow in Washington State.
Tolerant of wet poorly drained soil as well as clay and drought ( prefers dry summers ). Prune after flowering to encourage dense compact habit.
Dawn of Time
Reported to be even hardier, north to zone 7b
Hot Pink
Similar except for having deep pink flowers.
Hardy zones 8+ ( tolerating as low as 5 F )
Callistemon teretifolius ( Needle-Leafed Bottlebrush )
A handsome, moderate growing, spreading, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 13 feet, that is native to drier parts of South Australia.
The sharp-tipped, green leaves, up to 6 inches in length, resemble pine needles.
The profuse, dense, deep red flowers are borne on bottlebrush spikes, up to 5 inches in length, over a long season during spring and summer.
Hardy zones 8 to 11. Tolerates moderate frosts and is very drought tolerant.
Callistemon viminalis ( Weeping Bottlebrush )
A very attractive, strong branched, fast growing, weeping, large, evergreen tree, that is native to Australias east coast. Some records include: 20 years - 60 x 27 feet; largest on record - 70 x 40 feet with a trunk diameter of 3 feet; largest in Arizona - 60 feet in 60 years.
The lance-shaped leaves, up to 6 inches in length, are hairy bronze turning to bright green.
The showy, scarlet-red, bottlebrush flowers, up to 8 ( rarely over 4 ) inches in length, are borne during spring and early summer ( sporadically for the remainder of the year ).
The attractive bark is whitish and scaly.
Hardy zones 9 to 11 in full sun to partial shade. Tolerant of both very wet soil, drought, clay and alkaline soil; it can grow in climates with as little as 16 inches of annual rainfall. Moderately salt tolerant.
Captain Cook
Dense and bushy, reaching a maximum size of 33 x 16 feet.
The foliage is reddish-pink at first.
The dennse, red, bottlebrush flowers are up to 6 inches in length.
Dawson River
A weeping tree, reaching a maximum size of 60 x 40 feet.
The deep red, bottlebrush flowers are up to 5 inches in length.
Hannah Ray
A weeping tree, reaching a maximum size of 30 x 20 feet.
The flowers are intense red.
Wild River
A dense, bushy, large shrub to small tree, reaching a maximum size of 20 x 20 feet.
The leaves are very narrow. The broad bottlebrush flowers are red.
Wilderness White
A large white flowering form.
Callistemon viridiflorus ( Green Bottlebrush )
A moderate growing, erect, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 13 x 8 feet, that is native to Tasmania. It makes a great hedge.
The stiff leaves, up to 1.3 x 0.4 inches, are deep green. The foliage turns to deep reddish-purple during winter.
The greenish-yellow bottlebrush flowers are borne on dense bottlebrush spikes, up to 4 x 1.5 inches, during late spring and summer.
The attractive bark is light tan color.
Hardy zones 7 to 10, tolerating as low as -2 F. It is among the few Bottlebrushes to thrive in Washington State. Very tolerant of poorly drained wet soil as well as heat and drought. Prune after flowering for dense habit.
Callistemon Western Glory
An evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 13 x 10 feet.
The leaves are up to 3 inches in length.
The profuse, pinkish-red, bottlebrush flowers are borne during spring, often repeating in fall.
Hardy zones 8b to 11. Drought tolerant once fully established.
Callistemon Woodlanders Hardy
A very attractive, fast growing, arching, evergreen shrub, reaching a maximum size of 10 x 8 feet, that originated at Woodlanders Nursery at Aiken, South Carolina. It likely has Callistemon sieberi in its parentage. Some records include; 5 years - 4 x 4 feet.
The needle-like leaves are green.
The scarlet-red bottlebrush flowers are borne during early summer.
The bark is very attractive.
Hardy zones 6+. Tolerates hot humid summers in the southeastern U.S. and is known to
grow in North Carolina as well as in the Pacific Northwest. Drought tolerant.
Prune after flowering to encourage dense habit.
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Hydrangea in Landscape Design
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| Hydrangea Nikko Blue |
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| Nikko Blue Flower Head |
The Mopheads (Hydrangea macrophylla) are the most widely planted hydrangea in home landscapes and are usually blue or pink in color with large leaves.Hydrangea ‘Nikko Blue’ is very well known in the landscape for its large blue ball-shaped flowers that bloom towards the later part of the summer and deepen in color as they mature. ‘Nikko Blue’ Hydrangea does bloom on old wood, which means that if you are looking to prune your plant it needs to be done immediately after flowering before the fall. Hydrangea ‘Nikko Blue’ grows best in moist, well-drained soil in partial shade. It reaches 3-5 feet in height and is hardy to USDA Zone 5.
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| Hydrangea Endless Summer |
An alternative to Hydrangea ‘Nikko Blue’ is the new culitvar Hydrangea ‘Endless Summer’ which blooms on both old and new wood and ‘All Summer Beauty’ that blooms on the new growth of the season. Both of the later mentioned also have a much longer bloom time and repeatedly bloom throughout the summer. Each of these plants grows to approximately 3-5 feet in height, each grows best in partially shaded conditions (afternoon shade) and moist well drained soil and are hardy to USDA Zone 5. Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Blushing Bride’ in the Endless Summer Collection displays white blooms that turn pink with age.
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| French Miniature Hydrangea macrophylla Pia Pink Elf |
Hydrangea ‘Pia’ is a miniature French hybrid with broad pink flowers growing only to 2 feet in height, a good candidate for small spaces. ‘Pia’ also grows best in partial sun with afternoon shade and prefers a rich organic soil.
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| Hydrangea Tokyo Delight |
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| Hydrangea Twist & Shout |
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| Peegee Hydrangea Tree Form |
and is hardy in Zones 4-8.
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| Panicle Hydrangea Tardivia |
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| Hydrangea Annabelle |
Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’, a native of the U.S., is a more shade tolerant hydrangea that produces showy ball shaped white blooms in summer, grows 3-5 feet in height and is hardy to USDA Zone 3. ‘Annabelle’ blooms on new wood and can be severely pruned in winter in order to restore shape.
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| Hydrangea Bella Anna (Endless Summer Collection) |
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| Oakleaf Hydrangea |
The last two varieties of hydrangea are Hydrangea quercifolia or ‘Oakleaf ‘Hydrangea and Climbing Hydrangea. The Oakleaf hydrangea serves as an excellent plant for massing in a woodland setting. The name ‘Oakleaf’ comes from the oak-shaped leaves that turn a bright mahogany red in fall for a brilliant display. The upright panicles of large white flowers appear in June and the plant has a rounded habit, grows 4-6 feet in height and is hardy to USDA Zone 5. Hydrangea quercifolia does well in partial shade in a well drained most soil. This hydrangea blooms on old wood and should be pruned immediately after flowering. Climbing Hydrangea (H. anomala petiolaris) is an upcoming variety becoming more popular in the landscape. As the name implies this hydrangea once established produces vigorous vines and a profusion of lightly scented blooms.
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| H. anomala petiolaris-Climbing Hydrangea |
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| Endless Summer Collection |
Hydrangea has been a favorite plant of gardeners for centuries and will continue to show off their beauty in the landscape. There are selections for every taste and with the new cultivars that bloom on new and old wood pruning is now made easier. Hydrangea can fit into a variety of landscape styles and serve as an excellent addition for color in a partially shaded area. Give this plant a chance to shine in your garden and you will be happy you did!
Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2011. All Rights Reserved.
Tuesday, March 4, 2014
Perennials along the fenceline
Removing the rock and adding perennials and grasses spiced up the curb appeal of this place! I am excited to see it next year when the plants are established. The new color and textures really pop.
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